Absurdly early flight this morning, 4am start. One dive yesterday morning in Kavieng - just one due to flight today. I spent the rest of the day looking for Clem then running anti-virus on his computer. Thousands of infected files! Probably should've walked away from it for the afternoon but chose not to.
Flying back to Rabaul - have some sort of ear infection, which may prevent me from diving.
I spent most of yesterday with Dorian and Cara - owners of the Kavieng dive operation. They warmed as time went on. The guys working for them were from New Hanover - "Calaro" all round. A couple of people said it to me later on as I walked by.
Malagan Beach Resort is the only nice place in town.
Angie, Helen, Bernard and Juanita were my very friendly fellow guests at Rawal. The first night, we chatted at length. All four of them were great - we chatted about identity (Angie's heritage mixed from three areas: Manus, Highlands, East), politics - would a PNG loose federation work, sport - Rugby League state of origin mania. Bernard tutors in political science at the university. Angie's tales of Moresby buses were hilarious and good-natured: each bus is privately owned.
I spoke to Nadia at 8pm - I miss her so much!
Last night, the four took me for a drive down "The Highway" to some treehouses - very nice, and "only" K150-200 a night - not bad. I also chewed some betel nut with them: mildly affected by it and it tasted quite unpleasant!
Something else I remember from the village visits on New Hanover - kids walking in front of me, frowning and trying to look officious, saying "space, space"! Another boy said "good morning" to me at 5pm, which resulted in great laughter all round. He ran off slightly embarrassed but returned almost immediately, grinning like everyone else.
I had a sore, swollen foot after Monday but have managed to get it under control. It's a constant battle here against little niggles: sinus, foot, toe, ear, forehead - always hoping they don't become serious. Oh, and my gum/tooth too.
The market in Kavieng was rather uninspiring: betel nut and not much else.
Some other memories of the past few days: for a few moments, after the night dive, I felt like I was part of the sky - the reflections in the water of the stars, clouds and the remaining light were so perfect. Canopus cast so much light it made a trail on the water.
I sat next to Angie on the plane - a very nice young woman. We talked about racism including the Vice Chancellor of the university in Moresby - a South African. There was a student boycott and protests after Oli, a well-liked staff member, was sacked.
