Stars and phosphorescence

Went over to Sophie's home village, Meterankasing, this morning. We continued in the boat up the river there to look at the results of the Tutuman mining operation. Apparently the operation had been "approved" by a local man ... who just didn't happen to be the landowner! Protests by the local people were broken up by the police, who were brought in from outside. The village spring was destroyed by bulldozers.

The village kids were hilarious.

I've coined a hybrid phrase in the last couple of days and it's caught on - "don't livuk" - livuk meaning fear. The guys are saying it at every opportunity and laughing uproariously.

Did a night dive last night on the Sanko Maru - stars, phosphorescence.

I'm leaving tomorrow, so Clem gave me the bill tonight - it was a bit of a shock, but only because of the dive fees - I hadn't expected that. Soured things a little for me.

Clem mentioned that Oliver Mauger (related to Aaron Mauger, All Black) had been here the year before and had spent his time drinking, smoking and chewing betel nut - all in excess. It was a reminder that we're still somehow part of the outside world here.

Paddling the dugout

I've just been swimming and snorkelling at the other end of the island, accompanied by Robin and Bryan. It was a bit murky but there were nice corals and plenty of anemone fish. It rained heavily during the walk back but now it's bright and still again. Make the overcast and spitting. It's changeable!

Had lobster tails again for dinner last night - this time in tasty sauce. I went to bed around 9:20pm and slept until 7am. I peed off the balcony at 4am but rain should've washed it away!

The boys sang the A-E-I-O-U song coming back along the Tunung Highway. I wonder what they'd think of Melbourne? I'd hate it if I'd only known this all my life.

I have masses of mosquito bites on my right arm and my legs - must be from the jungle trek back on Ao island.

I paddled to Kung island this morning in a dugout canoe and surprised Clem with the speed with which I returned. Robin, Bryan and David didn't arrive until about 15 minutes after me. The locals on Kung saw me coming and I heard some squeals of excited laughter from the children. The dugout tended to veer to the outrigger side, so took some getting used to. I guess it was the event of the year for Kung.

"Calaro" is the Tunag word for all seasons. Means hello, goodbye, thank you, good and OK. All depends on the tone you employ.

I walked along the beach on Kung for a few minutes with the usual band of cute kids.

The big village yesterday is called Noi Puas - means Point Sand. I finished Tim Flannery's book Throwim Way Leg last night - well written and a good insight into a good man.